I have been anticipating Bali like a vacation. A vacation from vacation. I don't expect any pity from you for that statement, but trust me, traveling is hard work. I planned most of Bali with the beach as the focus. I wanted to see the sites, but I also just wanted to lounge by the water with a cocktail.
I also did not want to haul my backpack all over, so I picked two hotels and called it a day. No tour from location to location. Just lounging and cocktails.
We started in Ubud, which we were told is a cultural hub. Granted, there are many artisan workshops: silversmith, woodworking, batik and weaving. But, essentially, it was a European hub. I admit it, I loved it. It was comfortable, even if not completely authentic. But don't you worry, we'll get more authentic.
Anyways, when we arrived the taxi turned down a narrow side road. We passed many restaurants and hotels and spas. But we kept driving and those restaurants and hotels and spas thinned out. I started getting a little nervous. We finally arrived at our hotel and I held my breath as we drove down the driveway.
Paradise and bliss.
All concerns melted away as we were welcomed with fresh juice and walked up to our private balcony overlooking one of the infinity pools.
As I said, paradise and bliss.
Ubud is not coastal, so our infinity pool did not seem to run into the ocean, instead it ran into the neighboring rice fields. It was so peaceful.
On our second day, I had booked a tour of the area. We visited workshops, waterfalls and temples. Indonesia is primarily Muslim, but Bali is primarily Hindu. We were actually visiting just in time for a Hindu holiday. Either Hinduism has an exceptionally high number of holidays or we just manage to always visit Hindu countries in time for these holidays. Either way, I have a very festive perception of Hinduism.
We had to hike down in the heat (which makes you feel like a hot spring has sprung forth from your head!) and from afar the water seemed like a nice treat at the end if our walk. But as you get closer it's hard to dismiss the idea of leeches and such from your mind.
We had planned on going to the southern beaches, but there was some kind of miscommunication and we ended up in the opposite direction. Our guide took us to a temple that is carved into rock cliffs. Other temples are so ornate and a bit overwhelming, this one was far more peaceful and earthy. It was beautiful.
So, we didn't make it to Uluwatu or Kuta (which we had heard was kind of crazy anyways) or Jimbaran. Oh well, maybe we'll make it back someday.
We did see a music and dance performance. The dance was reminiscent of the dance in Kerala. Which makes sense as they were both based in Hindu religion. I love thinking about connections between groups of people separated by water. Here in Bali, though, it was a bit more serene. The music was absolutely beautiful. Matt loved the music so much, we ended up going to another performance that night at the Ubud Palace. The dance is an interesting mix of small movements in the head, fingers, legs and hips. The costumes and make up are ornate.
The next day, now that we had our bearings, we set out to explore Ubud on our own. Within walking distance of our hotel was the Monkey Forest. The first time we encountered monkeys, way back in China, they were cute and fun and novel. Since then, they have become pests. They are unpredictable and sneaky and sometimes vicious. I do not like monkeys. And monkeys in some of these places are like squirrels or birds in California. They are everywhere.
When I saw that Ubud had a Monkey Forest, I was prepared to tell our guide we didn't need to visit. And when I saw how close our hotel was I was hesitant to book. I did not need any monkeys looking at me while enjoying infinity pools and cocktails.
Fortunately, the monkeys stick to Monkey Forest. We ran by the first morning and saw some waking up. They seemed mild enough, so on our day of wandering we decided to go into Monkey Forest.
There are monkeys everywhere. All over the stairways and walkways. And they turn and watch you with their human eyes. Sometimes they're lazy and non threatening other times you can tell they just want to pounce on you.
There are some very adorable family units and the babies are pretty irresistible. But then they have those human eyes and it's just weird.
I always feel a little anxious walking right by them. Their stance is one that is always ready to move.
Even this guy, as lazy as he looks:
And they are pretty clever.
As we walked through the forest, we came to an area overcrowded by monkeys. People were even reaching out to pet them (they shouldn't do that; monkeys have fangs and fleas).
We had to cross a narrow bridge that was lined with monkeys. Matt walked confidently by and I had no choice but to follow. Oh, but those little alert eyes following your every move...
All of a sudden, I saw a blur out of the corner of my eye and felt an extra weight on my arm where I held my purse. I swung around, swinging the monkey grasping on to my bag as I went. I'll never forget making eye contact with that little jumper. What do you say to a naughty monkey that jumps on you? I think I mumbled something and maybe shook the bag a little. Fortunately, he jumped off pretty quickly and there was no skin to skin contact.
Matt found the whole ordeal highly entertaining. I can still feel that monkey swinging from my back. Needless to say, I was done with Monkey Forest and found the path of least resistance (no narrow bridges with monkeys!) to the exit.
On our way out, we did see this guy. He was just sitting there, closing his eyes as if to escape from his surroundings. If I had to live in Monkey Forest, I would do the same thing!
After that experience, we continued our wanderings in town. The day was redeemed by the most incredible juice of my life.
Watermelon, honey, basil and mint. Followed by frozen line and mint. Amazing. We had lunch there and returned later for dinner (but mostly for juice).
The next morning, we left our peaceful little place and drove to Lovina Beach in Northern Bali.
On the way, we stopped at rice terraces, a spice plantation (where we got to try a flight of coffees, including the luwak coffee, which is a highly refined coffee that is processed through the digestive system of the luwak...) and Mt. Batur, one of the volcanoes in Bali.
We arrived at Lovina and settled in. To be honest, I can't remember why I picked Lovina. At one point, I was convinced that we needed to have time to relax in Lovina. If I were to come back to Bali, I would go to the south. It's more touristy there, but I kind of wanted that. Remember, my goal was tanning, lounging and cocktails.
It took some getting used to, but we did find some nice spots. We walked through the fishing and farming villages. We went out early and saw it all coming to life. We ate at restaurants along the beach. Of course, we found the souvenir stands, but overall, I think we witnessed a more authentic Bali.
One of the tourist highlights of Lovina are the dolphins. You can take a boat to go see the dolphins in the morning. Matt initially said we can see dolphins in California, so we weren't planning on that particular tour. But, when we arrived, we were convinced to do it.
So at 5:00 am our first morning we went looking for dolphins. The local fisherman simply clean out their boats and convert them into a tourist attraction for the early morning.
We had opted to do snorkeling in addition to dolphin hunting, so we ended up with our own private boat.
We headed out to sea. The sun was beginning to shine behind the mountains and it was so warm. It felt good to be on the water.
In the distance we could see a group of similar boats huddled together. More were joining from various points on the beach. We joined a large herd of boats and watched the activity below and above the water unfold.
Basically, there are many pods of dolphins in the same area and as one emerges for air, all the boats swarm around giving their passengers a close look at the dolphins (who don't do much but swim up and down; mainly their fins surface, sometimes their noses- there were no flips or twirls going on).
So, our boats zigzagged across the water chasing after glimpses of dolphins. You can't help but wonder if the surrounding boats and motors are bothersome or even harmful to the dolphins. But, really, they're probablyuse to it. In fact, since dolphins are incredibly intelligent, you kind of wonder what is going on under the water. Maybe those dolphins know exactly what they are doing as they pop up here and there, pulling the boats along with them. Dividing and conquering the tourists would not be too challenging.
After we followed the dolphins for awhile we departed for our snorkeling adventure. Our boat stopped a short ways from shore and we jumped in. Beneath us were coral, shells, bright blue starfish and many colorful fish. Sometimes, the fish got a little close, but I think I made it without any nibbles.
Matt loved it. He was exploring, diving down, trying to pet the fish, collecting seashells. We had the area to ourselves, so it was pretty spectacular.
Then came the awkward part of the trip where you have to get back in the boat. That's my least favorite part of boats- getting in and out. I am not graceful at all when it comes to boats. Also, I'm pretty sure I heard our fisherman mutter big dolphin as I clambered over the side... Maybe he saw one in the distance.
We passed the rest of our time relaxing, collecting shells on the beach and eating fish. I tried marlin! Of course it was smothered in garlic butter, so that helps.
We went running through the village (which was unbearable after 7:00 in the morning, it was so hot!). One morning, some boys on their bikes started following us, so Matt raced them. I think he won.
On our last day, as we drove to the airport, we made one last stop at Tanah Lot. This is a Hindu temple built on a large rock in the ocean. It was pretty impressive. Under the cliffs onshore, there was a sign that said "Holy Snake." Under it a man was digging. Our driver said, "oh not awake yet." I thought about how we needed to leave before some ancient serpent was unearthed. Our driver reassured me it wasn't one big snake, just small, but many. I left before they woke up.
So, that was our mini vacation. Overall, lovely, but I would pick some other locations if we ever returned. Which our guides often suggested we do, with children in tow next time.
