After the Routeburn, we rested a day in Te Anau, eating (you'd think we just spent weeks on the trail) before heading out for our last Great Walk: the Kepler.
This is our longest walk. We'll be out for three nights and four days. This is important to note, because we finish just a day before the Kepler Challenge. 400 runners will complete in one day what we do in four. In fact the record for this race is 4 hours and 32 minutes. That is shorter than our shortest day!
Here is the worst part: as we walk along the trail I can see the wheels turning in Matt's head. He's thinking: this is a great trail, I love trail running, I could train for this run, I could run this run, my wife can run it with me!
And I just can't say no to him.
But, this year, we are safe. We're just tramping along.
On our first day, we got up early for one more pie (remember, they're savory here, so perfectly acceptable for breakfast) and caught a boat across Lake Te Anau to Brod Bay where we met the trail.
For two hours we walked upward through the trees. I kept looking up thinking we were about to break the tree line. Finally, it seemed to thin as we caught glimpses of the lake below. Then, we took one step and we were out. The line was so clear. First, you're in the trees, then you're in the grassy tussocks.
I adore grassy tussocks.
We walked along a nice trail, one that even I would consider running on (foreshadowing). Then the trail sloped down to the hut.
I love the building designs in New Zealand. All the huts have been amazing, but even some neighborhoods have this same aesthetic. It's contemporary, but fits the landscape with a sustainable look. There's probably a technical term for it, but basically it's dark on the outside, but lined with windows and plywood on the inside, keeping it light and warm inside. If only wood paneling were enough to keep a place warm. The wood burning stoves were never too successful for us.
The Luxmore Hut sat on a hillside and was quite large. You could get to the bathroom without even going outside!
We were very fortunate our first day as there was not a cloud in the sky. Apparently, this area has had a particularly cold and wet spring, so it was a unique day.
After arriving early in the afternoon we explored some nearby caves. The Luxmore Caves are easily accessed, but you're on your own once you go inside. We saw some amazing formations as we climbed through the cave with our torches. Once it got too tight we turned around. (Also Matt thought it would be fun to make the sounds of certain mythical creatures, so I was done scrambling through a cave.)
Back at the hut, we were entertained by some kea. Matt always likes to try to play with these social birds. In fact, he's gotten very good at his bird calls.
That afternoon, we had planned on going on the guided nature walk with the ranger. But, we were the only two interested, so he suggested we take advantage of the incredible clear skies and hike up to Mt. Luxmore Peak.
Normally, I would not walk up the same hill two times, but the weather was tempting, so we walked up. It was definitely with it. The mountains in the distance came into view even as we looked down on Lake Te Anau far below.
It was getting late, so we didn't go all the way to the top. Besides, we knew there was always tomorrow, when we would have to hike up the same hill again.
So, we headed down to hear the weather report at the hut talk.
The forecast was drizzle turning to downpour. In addition to rain, there would be 80km wind on the alpen trail as we walked across!
The next day, we headed out under darker skies, back up that hill again. This time, we did go to the peak. It was spectacular, but also miserable. The wind was strong and so cold.
I admit there may have been a minor meltdown along the path. My face was so cold I thought it would fall off. My hood wouldn't tighten without the straps tied, but they tied right at my mouth, like a horse's bridle. The only thing worse than riding a horse is feeling like a bridled horse.
So, Matt untied me and wrapped an emergency blanket around my face (not sure how safe that is). Then I held my hood with my hands and I ran. I channelled those Kepler Challenge runners and I ran. I ran through that wind all the way to the next shelter.
It was such a relief to be there, out of the wind. Inside, we bundled up (not by wrapping plastic around our faces this time).
The wind continued, but the rain never came, which was a miracle we are grateful for.
High on top of the mountains, we walked along the ridges. It was stunning and one of the most spectacular trails I've walked on. Matt was totally in his glory. We walked and down from peak to peak.
Finally, we headed back down below the trees. A steep climb down and we reached the next hut.
The next morning it was raining, but by the time we started walking, it stopped and I was happily tramping in my shorts. A total difference from the previous day of wind and cold.
It was a different kind of beauty walking through the forest. But the best part was arriving at the hut which is nicely situated on Lake Manapouri.
The sun was shining, and the lake was calling our names. You better believe we took a dip. Granted, we were in that water for about ten seconds, but we needed a bath.
Swimming in lakes is GLORIOUS!
After a warm night we headed out and finished the Kepler.
After eating a couple more pies (we'd been hiking, we needed the calories), we had to get ourselves back to Queenstown. We had planned on a bus later in the afternoon. But why waste hours waiting for a bus?
So, my time efficient husband found us a place on the road to Queenstown and there we were with our thumbs up. Again.
After 30 awkward minutes, we got a ride all 176 km back to Queenstown. I had booked a fancy looking hotel on the lakeside (our room looks out at the pool and restaurant instead of the lake, so it was a deal). The best part is that the bathroom is ensuite! I don't think we have had our own bathroom in nearly two weeks. I might take five showers today.
Now that we're cleaned up, we're enjoying our weird view and looking forward to picking up another car in the morning and going north to explore the North Island...
It's hard to believe how quickly our time in New Zealand is going. I know we still have some incredible places to visit, but it is bittersweet to be leaving the South Island for the hinterlands to come.
